A site plan is not an engineering survey or a topographic map. It doesn't require grade elevations, soil data, or licensed-surveyor stamps in most residential cases. It answers one question for the reviewer: where on this lot is the work, and does it clear the setbacks?
What a site plan shows
A permit-ready site plan typically includes:
- Property lines — the legal boundary of the parcel, drawn to scale
- Setbacks — the required distance between structures and each property line (front, rear, side), set by local zoning
- Existing structures — the house, garage, and anything already on the lot
- Proposed work — the new deck, shed, addition, pool, or other structure, with its footprint and dimensions
- Distances to property lines — measured from the proposed work to each boundary
- Site features — driveway, walkways, patio, fences, and easements where relevant
- A north arrow and scale — so the reviewer can orient and measure the drawing
- Address and parcel information — identifying the specific lot
Not every jurisdiction wants every element. A shed permit in one county may need far less than a room addition in another — but property lines, the proposed work, and setback distances are near-universal.
When you need a site plan
Most residential building permits that add or change a structure's footprint require a site plan. Common triggers:
- Decks and porches
- Sheds and detached garages
- Room additions and expansions
- Pools and hot tubs
- Fences (in some jurisdictions)
- Driveways and curb cuts
- Egress windows and below-grade work (to show location on the lot)
If your local building department asks you to "submit a site plan" with your permit application, they mean this drawing — work location, distances to property lines, and nearby features. They are generally not asking for engineer-grade topography.
Site plan vs. plot plan vs. survey
These terms overlap and are often used interchangeably, which causes confusion:
Site plan
Shows proposed and existing structures on the lot, with setbacks. The standard permit submission for most residential work.
Plot plan
Frequently used to mean the same thing. Some jurisdictions use "plot plan" for a simpler drawing showing just the lot and building placement.
Survey
A legally precise measurement of the property boundary, prepared and stamped by a licensed surveyor. More rigorous and more expensive — usually only required for boundary disputes, new construction, or specific jurisdictional rules.
For most deck, shed, and addition permits, what the office calls a "site plan" (or "plot plan") is the drawing you need — not a full survey.
How to get a site plan
There are three common routes:
1 Draw it yourself by hand
Free, but slow and error-prone. Getting the property lines to scale and the setbacks accurate by hand is where most DIY submissions get rejected.
2 Hire it out — and pay for the markups
A drafter, architect, or engineer can produce one, but the retail price often reflects a chain of markups, not the actual work. A drawing that starts as a sub-$150 draft frequently reaches the end user at $300–$600, because it passes through a middle layer — someone buys drafts in bulk, marks them up, and resells. You're often paying two markups on a drawing that takes minutes to produce.
3 Generate one from parcel data
Tools now pull the property boundary directly from county GIS records and let you place the proposed work to scale, producing a permit-ready PDF in minutes. Because you're pulling the authoritative county geometry, the middle layer disappears — no bulk-draft markup, no reseller margin. Faster than outsourcing, more accurate than drawing by hand.
Weighing routes 2 and 3? Our site plan creator comparison puts the main DIY tools and done-for-you services side by side on price, turnaround, CAD files, and the refund fine print.
How to make a site plan, step by step
Whichever route you choose, every permit-ready site plan comes together the same way. If you're making one yourself, work through these steps in order:
- 1. Get your property boundary. The accurate source is your county's parcel record (GIS), your deed's legal description, or an existing survey — not a guess from the fence line. This is the step where hand-drawn plans go wrong.
- 2. Pick a scale and sheet size. Common residential choices are 1" = 20' on letter or 11×17 paper. Write the scale on the sheet — reviewers measure against it.
- 3. Draw the property lines to scale. Every boundary segment, at its true length and bearing, forming the closed parcel shape.
- 4. Add existing structures. The house, garage, sheds, driveway, and walkways — each in its actual position, labeled.
- 5. Place the proposed work and dimension the setbacks. Draw the new deck, shed, addition, or pool at its footprint size, then label the measured distance from the work to each property line. These setback dimensions are what the reviewer checks first.
- 6. Finish the sheet. North arrow, scale notation, the property address and parcel number, and a label distinguishing proposed work from existing structures. Some offices also want a title block.
A parcel-data generator does steps 1–3 automatically — the boundary arrives to scale from county records — leaving you steps 4–6 with drag-and-drop placement. That's the whole reason the DIY-tool route takes minutes instead of an afternoon; you can try it on the free 30-day trial.
Common reasons site plans get rejected
Permit reviewers reject site plans for predictable reasons:
- Not to scale — a reviewer can't measure setbacks on a drawing that isn't scaled
- Missing setback dimensions — distances to property lines not shown or not labeled
- Wrong or missing property lines — freehand boundaries that don't match the parcel
- Missing north arrow or scale bar
- Proposed work not clearly distinguished from existing structures
- Jurisdiction-specific formatting — some offices require specific title-block or sheet-size formats
Getting the property boundary right and labeling every setback distance clears the most common rejections.
PlotForge™ generates permit-ready, to-scale site plans from real county GIS parcel data. Enter an address, place your proposed work, and export a permit-ready PDF in minutes — with the property lines pulled straight from county records, not traced by hand.
See how it works →